Here is a list of simple tips for getting good photographs.
The list is reasonably comprehensive – that is, most of the important things about getting good images are here. Each ‘tip’ is kept short so that you can follow up in more detail elsewhere (eg on the Web or via photography books/magasines).
Some of this will seem very basic BUT I have put it all here so you can use it like a checklist – just to be sure you are not ‘missing something…’
Remember – half the photographic process is about YOU the photographer – you find the subject you want to shoot, you compose the shot, you check the light and so on. The other half of the equation in getting good shots is about equipment – your CAMERA. For example having your camera (and tripod) with you, being familiar with the capabilities of your camera, being aware that if you want excellent images you need good equipment (but I hasten to add there are many great images taken on amateur level but competent cameras!).
Here is my ‘getting good photographs’ list:
- Hold the camera as STILL as possible (use tripod in low light, use the 2 second delay…)
- Remember – release shutter in two steps – ie first half press shutter release to focus (wait for ‘ready’ beep…) then gently press to take the photo. Or when manually focussing check focus in Live View if you can…
- Consciously compose – use the Rule of 3rds (but not rigidly!), get closer, move around to test composition, get low, think about how you might crop the image later… Think ‘foreground’, ‘lead in lines’ etc…
- Lighting – is generally best from the side as you get better contrast and ‘relief’. For landscapes light is best early morning and late afternoon/evening. For portraits try softer lighting eg a cloudy day through the window. Use your ‘fill in’ flash if light is coming from behind your subject. A cloudy day can also be great for photography – you get a nice even light without harsh contrast to deal with… (good for bush/forest scenes…)
- Use the Aperture Mode (‘A’ or ‘Av’) on your camera – best sharpness is generally around f5 on a compact and f8 on a DSLR. This is a generalisation – that generally works! As an aside my experience is that any lens is usually sharpest about 1/3rd of the way between max aperture and min aperture. This means a typical DSLR ‘kit’ lens is best around f8.0. The compromise is getting a good DOF – see next point… Remember, when using Aperture Mode always watch your shutter speed… especially in low light (ideally keep above 1/30th). Though with a steady hand and VR/image stabilisation sharp shots at 1/8th sec can work! Take several shots so that at least one is sharp! The exception to all the above is when shooting sports or kids etc – in which case use Shutter Priority (‘S’ or ‘Tv’ on your camera mode dial).
- Use Depth of Field (DOF) – eg large DOF for landscapes (eg f13 or f16) and narrow for portraits (eg f1.8 or f2.8). For landscapes focus about 1/3rd of the way into the scene for best focus within your DOF (ie to get both foreground and background in focus). Then check your focus in playback. Don’t go below f16 to maximise DOF as diffraction at higher f stops (eg f19, f22 etc) reduces sharpness. As a general rule (but it depends on the lens) wide angles give good DOF and telephotos give narrow DOF. Using low f stop (eg f1.8) will give minimal DOF (and thus a blurred background), and high f/stop (eg f16) a ‘deep’ DOF with everything more or less in focus.
- Remember the balance between Aperture/Shutter speed/ISO. Ideally you want to keep your shutter speed above 1/30th sec, use an f stop that gives you the DOF you want and a low ISO (say around 100) to keep image ‘noise’ low. When using a telephoto lens try to keep the shutter speed around the same as the lens focal length or better (eg for a 200mm lens use 200th sec shutter speed or better). If you have to – increase your ISO – a little bit of noise is preferable to a slightly blurry image… Learn up about the ‘Exposure Triangle’ (Aperture v Shutter Speed v ISO).
- Use image stabilisation (Canon ‘IS’/Nikon ‘VR’) if available. If you are using your tripod remember to switch camera image stabilisation OFF. (Also remember to switch it back on again!) If you are using a long exposure (eg shutter speed below 1/30th) use the 2 second delay setting or a remote release.
- Set image resolution to maximum – ie use largest image setting and ‘super fine’ or ‘fine’ compression. Use Raw + JPEG if possible. Shoot in colour – convert to black and white later if you want. Use a large memory card.
- Use ‘focus lock’ to focus and re-compose if necessary. Especially useful when your main subject is off to the side of your ideal composition – in which case focus directly on the subject, press half way, recompose, then fully press the shutter button and take the picture.
- Always – check your photo on the monitor – play the image back and check focus (zoom in to 100%) and exposure. Use Exposure Compensation to get better exposure if needed – also see Histogram… Take another shot if it is not quite ‘right’.
- If the sun is in front of you or to the side try to shade your lens (or use a lens hood) to reduce ‘flare’.
Other Useful Tips:
- Be familiar with you camera – practice, fiddle, play, experiment. Use the ‘manual’ controls.
- Have a spare battery. And a spare SD card.
- Use a tripod (but one you can easily take with you!)
- Understand the Histogram – use it when reviewing your shot.
- Have a foreground in your landscapes – to lead the viewer into the picture… (lead in lines)
- If you think the image should look better than it does try converting to mono (Black and white)…
- Consciously plan your photos – eg a photo ‘expedition’ to an interesting spot, a portrait of a child… Think about the place, the subject, the light – and play with various angles/compositions…
- Use a good quality UV filter to protect your lens, and use a blower and lens cloth to keep it clean. (Always use the blower first to get dust off, then use the lens cloth…)
- Use photo processing software to ‘improve’ your images – eg to crop, improve tones and colours. Use ‘sharpening’ sparingly. Watch for ‘noise’ – do noise reduction before sharpening. Eg Photoshop/Photoshop Elements. When you are still new to digital photography using your JPEG image and Elements will give a good result – but see next comment.
- For serious work shoot with your camera setting on RAW + JPEG and process first in Lightroom using the RAW image, then save as JPEG and finish in Elements if necessary. Using RAW and Lightroom gives much more room for adjustment of light and dark tones in your image (eg a landscape with dark foreground and bright sky…)
- Larger camera sensors and better lenses generally give better images – but cost more… Remember, a striking image is as much about you the photographer and the subject, as it is about the camera.
- Remember – the more you do the better you become! Experiment. Practice. Try new locations or subjects. Play with your camera and with your image processing software. Enjoy!
Stuart Macdonald 17 September 2019